This was in last week’s CNM Chronicle. There are some issues with the Issuu website, so I wasn’t able to just copy and paste from the paper. This is my review before edits. I like that when I write these, the Chronicle only has the copyright for two weeks. I can’t publish it elsewhere the week prior to or the week after the publication date of the Chronicle in which it appears. No prob! A week later, y’all can read it here!
Retro Taco: Muy autentico
By Steve “Mo” Fye
Food Critic
Located in the booming Red Light District just south of UNM, Retro Taco is a new taco stand that offers traditional Mexican fare in a slick, modern atmosphere.
The restaurant is bright and clean, with the menu displayed with animation on flat screen monitors above the counter. Friendly staff take orders and then bring the food to patrons at any of the handful of seats inside or to tables out in the shaded patio area. Mexican pop comes from speakers throughout the tiny, but pleasant establishment.
The menu is limited. Tacos, Burritos, Combo Platters and Tortas (Mexican sandwiches) are essentially the only offerings, but the slow-simmered meats are the stars of the meal. The Three Taco Combo seemed a touch expensive at over eight dollars, but the plate came loaded with beans and rice and three giant portions of meat in doubled soft corn tortillas. Patrons will find themselves hard pressed to finish this at one sitting.
The Charro Beans were a bit lackluster, similar to what’s offered at any Mexican restaurant, but the rice was perfectly cooked, lightly seasoned and featured lots of sweet yellow corn.
The Carne Desebrada (shredded beef) was delicious, simmered for hours until it falls apart. The Carnitas (pork shoulder, literally little meats) were tender and falling apart in the taco and seasoned wonderfully. The Pollo (chicken) was also tasty, long-cooked in chiles and mildly flavored.
The Cochinita Pibil is delicious, sweet and savory. This pulled pork is simmered for hours in achiote (annatto seed) paste, orange and lime juices. The name means “little pig” and “earthen,” referring to the clay pot in which it was traditionally cooked. The sweetness came as a bit of a surprise, but it was just delicious, especially with the fiery red salsa.
Ah, the salsas. Right next to the order counter is a long flip-top cooler filled with salsas and condiments. The salsas ranged from spicy to defiantly hot. Salsa Cruda and Salsa Verde lie next to cilantro leaves, limes and the hugely flavored Salsa Rojo. The salsa bar would be reason alone to visit Retro Taco.
The Tortas are wonderful as well, especially a few hours later, when the flavors of the meat mingle with the rest of the ingredients.
Retro Taco is a franchise restaurant, based on the original location in Mexico City. There are several locations south of the border in Cabo, Vallarta and Cancun but the Albuquerque site is the first in the U.S. It is owned by manager Ismael Felix, who visits every table to ensure good service and customer satisfaction. Felix is demonstrably proud of the food, and assures every patron of the high quality of the ingredients used.
The food at Retro Taco is wonderful and authentic. It’s the type of fare formerly only found coming from outlaw food trucks, but served in a pleasant, cool atmosphere, where patrons can sit in comfort with a beer. Retro Taco offers a selection of cold Mexican beers as well as Sam Adams.
Despite the limited menu coming from a miniscule kitchen, Retro Taco is worthy of future visits to try the meats in different presentations. The Burritos seem a good bet for a quick lunch, while the Combo Platters would be good for a leisurely dinner. This is a welcome addition to the University Area and will likely flourish.
Retro Taco: 115 Harvard S.E., Suite 3, Next to Cheba Hut in the Red Brick District. Summer hours: Tuesday through Saturday, Noon to 7 p.m. Sunday, Noon to 5 p.m. www.retrotaco.com